Who’s really being silenced on Twitter? | 220v Contactor Relay

But it seems our society is structured so that a lack of morals, and inability to feel empathy (but ability to fake it, when needed), can lead certain ambitious and capable individuals right up to where they can do a lot of harm. There’s so many political decisions, particularly in the UK, where “fuck ’em” must have been the answer to any qualms about the needy. Even to the point of ill people killing themselves, and even a few who’ve starved to death.

Just make sure everything is safe and properly grounded any time you’re using electrical equipment and everything should be great. No more reaching behind the Christmas tree to unplug the lights at bedtime!

The device uses two hot and one ground to supply the 240V output which is, in some business where there is three phase power this will be closer to 208V but should still work. Obviously you shouldn’t be doing this unless you know exactly how it works, and we applaud [Nick] for airing these hazards while at the same time supplying the knowledge behind the concerns.

In the US, sharing neutrals between circuits is generally prohibited in the National Electrical Code, 200.4, which says, essentially, “Don’t share neutrals, unless we say somewhere else in the code that you can.” That bit was added in 2011, though other parts of the code cast a penumbra that seemed to say that sharing neutrals was verboten before 2011. In 2011, it became clearly prohibited.

Didn’t have to purchase any EVSE. My 2016 Volt came with one, that was L2 capable. You only needed to make a pigtail. It’s actually a Clipper Creek. So, for about $60, I installed a NEMA L6-20 outlet, with 20amp double-pole breaker, and 8 ft of 10-4 wire that I had left over. $20 got me a permit.

The main benefits of the RGC..32 include the fact it has the highest amperage rating of any 17.8 or 22.5mm wide solid state switching devices available on the market, DIN rail spacing over 22.5 mm platform, optional cage clamp power terminal for wires up to 3 AWG size, and energy savings due to lower power dissipation.

Once upon a time, must have been 13 or 14 at the time, was doing the annual find the blown bulb in the christmas tree lights. Must have completed said mission and marvelled how the bit of cable at the middle/end of the lights was hidden within insulation tape (lights must have been 20 or so years old, this was in the 90s) and the curious being that I am thought let’s see what the tapes hiding – obviously bare wires.

At least you thought about fuse and earth ground wire. Hopefully you also kept the thermal fuse of the iron – normally they have one to prevent fire in case of a welded thermostat contact (or short circuit in the solid state relay). And hopefully you kept or built a good case for all this (the open part of the iron).

Kapton tape is nice but I know it peels and needs replacing eventually. You wouldn’t legally be able to sell something using just tape as a mains insulator. Glass can break. It’s a small chance, but risk should be proportionate to the danger when things fail. You might sometimes have metal screws or whatnot on the bed if you’re assembling a couple of pieces there. Best not to mess.

Current starts derating at about 82C (see page 12). But look at the size and configuration of the heat sink required for a 25A SSR, it is 100mmx100mm with lots of fins (see page 13). That will be with lots of free air, preferably mounted so the fins are vertical or with some forced air flow.

“The Psychopath Test” by Jon Ronson is a great book about it, the guy who invented the checklist now used to diagnose psychopaths, has his pet theory that psychopaths with power are the cause of many of the world’s ills and inequities. His name’s Bob Hare, and he probably knows more about it than most other experts.

L2 is absolutely useful in cold climate, specially when you don’t have a heated garage. Because a very minimalistic L1 level won’t be able to charge much while also having to keep the battery at a functional temperature, more less to preheat the car or the battery at optimal temperature.