Who’s really being silenced on Twitter? | 220v Contactor Relay

All electrical devices are designed with safety in mind and are rigorously tested to make sure the design works. All of us have probably plugged in one too many things on the same circuit and tripped a breaker or blown a fuse, and that’s the first consideration you need to know about the Amazon Smart Plug — it has a safe output rating based on the type of load you’re using. Here are the exact technical specifications according to Amazon.

Even if a business without a license can charge you less, it’s worth looking for a licensed electrician like me. Most states require professional electricians to be licensed, so a person without one is a red flag. He or she might not have insurance and could stop picking up the phone if something goes wrong. As a licensed electrician, I will be held accountable—which is good news for my customers. Check out these other 35 things every homeowner needs to know.

I use mains power for my bed on both of my 3D printers. It’s controlled from RAMPs exactly the same as a 12v bed would be with the exception that the signal from the RAMPs board is used to trigger a solid state relay. I use a standard silicon heat mat: https://www.google.com/search?q=3m+heat+mat&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjawpmuoOPJAhVFtIMKHXC1AO0Q_AUICCgC&biw=960&bih=557

Speaking of mains power and gas pipes, I live in a 100-year-old house which has some rather dubious wiring (though, perhaps not as bad as the knob-and-tube it started with). The kitchen’s gas range had been in place since puke green was the preferred color, and its power cord (for the clock & timer) was, unbeknownst to me, seriously frayed. The range’s gas inlet was connected to the shutoff valve on the wall with one of those scary-looking flexible tubes (not a modern, yellow insulated one, but rather bare metal). Well, one day the range got pushed back for cleaning, and the exposed hot lead in its power cord brushed that gas line. ZAP!, followed by a roaring jet of flame from the large hole now in the flimsy gas line. I couldn’t get close enough to the shutoff valve to use it, so I had the frantically seek out a big wrench and shut off the gas where it enters the house in the basement. By then the wall behind the range was well and truly aflame (way too big for my wimpy little fire extinguisher to deal with), so I threw pans of water on the fire. I figured the breaker for the outlet the range was plugged into had already tripped, but it later turned out that the contact had been too brief for that and I was throwing water on a live electrical circuit–no harm came of that, fortunately.

When finished “fixing” things, you want to make sure, your device is still safe to the user. For this you need these testers.

The ones I’m talking about, they’re ubitquitous, supermarkets have them, don’t do dimming, just on/off. They seem to use a relay, from the clicking they make. I don’t think this one does dimming either right?

In air conditioning, we are given a gift by equipment manufacturers on the equipment data tags: the minimum circuit ampacity (MCA) and MOCP or max fuse/max circuit breaker rating.

I can see the benefit of inspection, I guess (that none of your wires popped off or something?). My comment on the relays was not that they were unsuitable, but that using the 240v coil as a 240v detector may or may not be entirely reliable because of holding vs. draw-in currents, box getting dropped, etc. although that’s edge-case engineering to an excessive degree and it really is perfectly fine.

I’ve done enough research about power capacitors and mains voltage that after I unplug anything, including all the TV’s that I work on, to repeatedly press and/or hold the power button until I’m satisfied that it’s discharged before cracking it open.

I’m not claiming this is a new phenomenon (I’ve done some stupid things with electricity myself, before the www was even invented) but we know that the media isn’t always rational about these matters.

The IEC61010 category ratings on an Agilent multimeter. Medvedev [CC BY-SA 3.0], via Wikimedia CommonsYour instruments such as multimeters, oscilloscopes, and their probes will all carry an appropriate safety rating for maximum voltage, surge voltage, and current. In modern equipment this will be denoted by specified classes each with their associated voltage defined under IEC 61010, though you may find older equipment with IEC348 or other national standard ratings (Fluke publishes a handy PDF explaining these standards in detail if you would like to know more). These ratings are important in ensuring that the instrument keeps you safe as you use it.

Beside the Canadian electrical code require fully dedicated 20 amps circuit for 120 volts vehicule charging. Common receptacle are week and cheap and are worn by abuse plugins and pulling all sorts of appliances in and out.