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Oh… As for power meter… OpenEVSE II – my own take on OpenEVSE – has an isolated voltmeter and an ammeter in it. There’s development firmware being worked on right now that keeps a running kW-hr log on the display. Very handy. 
There are people that play with high voltage stuff like Tesla coils, induction heaters etc. Now those know enough to respect high voltage.
You can also see the top of the mechanism for the tilt / swivel LCD panel, peeking out on either side of the electronic viewfinder. The viewfinder itself projects quite a bit from the rear of the camera, a decision that was apparently necessitated by the tight packaging of components in front, including the AF module, popup flash, hot shoe, and microphones.
Jamie Spinelliâs job as a case manager for Community Services Northwest takes her to parks, homeless shelters, the jail and…
SSRs can actually contain what is used here: optocoupler+triac or they may use optocoupler+mosfet. Just like individual triacs you will find that they suffer from the same issue: high power dissipation. A quick looks shows BT137 will burn 20W to switch a 5A load, I see 6W for the first 10A SSR I encounter. This is too much to dissipate in a small junction box isolated inside a wall. Meanwhile, a 10A relay will dissipate maximum 2.5W through the 0.1ohm contacts.
I agree. Plus, from my experience using remote controlled outlets, when the 4A inbuilt fuse dies because of reasons, the relay stays intact. O the other hand, I have never seen a light dimmer with blown fuse, just blown triacs.
“180 bolts per second”? Now there’s an engineering unit I’ve never encountered in more then 50 years. No, it’s just a 150-180 volt sinusoidal or square wave at various frequencies. In past years, the coil on the bell was mated to an appropriate capacitor to allow ringing a specific phone on a “party line” based on the ring frequency. It was amazing stuff for a time when they simply hadn’t run enough wires for all of the individual “private lines”, so they had to engineer very basic things to fill the need. It was in a sense, the most basic and pure form of understanding the physics (electrical and mechanical) hacking.
This is a fantastic idea: a regular PCB, that gummy conformal coat over any solder joints, solder mask is fine for insulation if you space your traces correctly, and an SSR to turn it on or off. If you have a problem with the thing getting too hot, set a maximum with a variac on the input and you’ll get slower ramps at lower voltage but lower maxima. This is not unsafe, I would think it a fine idea, and I may have a different bed material in mind too.
You don’t need a 3D printer to use a heated print bed for 3D printing? I’d think that having the rest of the 3D printer would more or less be required to use a heated bed to facilitate printing.
I suppose it’d be a case by case thing. But I wouldn’t want to give an insurance company another excuse not to pay out.
Also power the unit directly from the mains ( http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/appnotes/00954a.pdf ) with the ability to power the unit directly with DC when (re)programming the ESP8266
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