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I’d love to see a follow piece on how to work with High Voltage as well. Lots of interesting projects to do with microwave and neon transformers…
The third incident was also while I was working for the welding repair company. I had a previously perfectly working high-pot tester and needed to test the insulation on a transformer. The tester itself failed and shorted to the case – and I took 11kv AC to the fingers just by turning the power on. That stung a bit, but I got a new high-pot out of the deal, so a net positive.
http://www.mikeholt.com/technical.php?id=grounding/unformatted/GroundResistance&type=u&title=Ground%20Resistance%20-%20It%27s%20Not%20What%20You%20Think%20%2812-30-99%29
This certainly looks like one of the more impressive ARM-powered Windows 10 laptops we’ve seen so far. The first few devices ran on the same Snapdragon 835 chip found in Android smartphones from last year, and they showed early promise with some issues that still needed work.
I don’t know about anywhere else, but in North America, power enters the home via two 120V hot and one neutral. The two 120V hot legs are out of phase with each other, and when combined, you get 240V. So, from the breaker panel, you can pull 120V or 240V, depending on the type of breaker you insert at a given position. Some large appliances (water heaters, central AC units, electric stoves, large power tools) are 240V in North America, but most everything else is designed for a single leg 120V feed. Then just to make things even more complicated, large industrial businesses often have three phase 480V for the really big equipment.
Agreed. I don’t see us revisiting the war of the currents. Interties between independent grids make sense, but there’s a reason that AC won, and I don’t think time and advancing technology has significantly changed that.
Reading at least the related article and a datasheet before making comments about something is quite a heavy task to ask this days…
Here I have always wondered. If the power bill is such a concern, then why not buy a heat pump for water heating instead? (It drawn typically around half to a third of the power to give the same heat output.)
Most people here only deal with low voltages – domestic mains and below. Where I live even mains voltage is lethal.
A capacitor stores electricity and is used during the compressor and fan startup for extra power. It also protects the motor from damage due to fluctuating voltage. These capacitors don’t last forever and can go out unexpectedly. If you are comfortable with electrical repairs you can use a screwdriver to discharge the dual start/run capacitor by connecting terminals to short it out, and then replace it with a new one made for the make and model of your A/C. If that’s beyond the level of DIY you’re comfortable tackling, then call a pro.
I’ve spent four to eight years in apprentice school learning how to plan, install, inspect, and repair electrical products. Don’t insult my intelligence by implying otherwise.
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