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There are many applications that don’t require 10A switching. As long as you are aware of the power limit of the device, there’s no harm in making a version for 1A or less.

The skin depth varies with the magnetic permeability of the material. Iron for example reacts at very low frequencies, so much so that it becomes useless for wires at 50 Hz.

The key is to reference NEC NFPA 70 Table 310.15(B)(16) to find the ampacity of a conductor and size that conductor according to the MCA listed on the unit label. When this is done, the conductor will be properly sized according to the NEC.

I mean really this shouldn’t be a big deal. Resistance heating that you plug into the wall has been done in millions and millions of devices for basically a century. When you really think about it, a toaster is probably WAY more dangerous than what is being proposed here.

No, he is using a MC3041 to drive a BT137 which can handle 8 amps continuously (if properly heatsinked).

I’m not claiming this is a new phenomenon (I’ve done some stupid things with electricity myself, before the www was even invented) but we know that the media isn’t always rational about these matters.

This is a heater that’s going to be near fingers, or elbows, and is completely accessible to them, completely easy to touch. One day, when he’s distracted thinking about something else (not rare), he’ll end up touching the heater and getting a shock.

A 25A relay seems perfect for a 22A load. If the relay is really built for 25A and not only marked as one. What use had a maximum rating when you could never really use it?

It’s still dangerous though. Cost of a 12V power supply vs a small chance of killing myself, I’d spend the money. 3D printers aren’t cheap anyway, why economise on safety?

I don’t know about anywhere else, but in North America, power enters the home via two 120V hot and one neutral. The two 120V hot legs are out of phase with each other, and when combined, you get 240V. So, from the breaker panel, you can pull 120V or 240V, depending on the type of breaker you insert at a given position. Some large appliances (water heaters, central AC units, electric stoves, large power tools) are 240V in North America, but most everything else is designed for a single leg 120V feed. Then just to make things even more complicated, large industrial businesses often have three phase 480V for the really big equipment.

My situation is a good example. I just purchased a new house and unfortunately it does not have a garage. Until I get the garage built in the Spring with a NEMA 14-50 outlet, I’m going to rough it with L1 at 120V/15A.

inserts probes into amperge socket sets to VAC and measures 120v wall socket meter goes bang and lets blue smoke out