Xiaomi’s Redmi Note 4 has a big 4,100 mAh battery and a tiny price tag | 19mm Momentary Push Button

[It looks like I’m on meds with all my grammar and spelling errors in the post – and I am actually Pain meds and muscle relaxant for a evil frozen shoulder….]

I don’t approve of that design. It lacks the third relay, which means that if you plug into two circuits on the same phase, you get 0 volts between the two hots, but both are still 120 volts away from ground. That means that the equipment doesn’t work, but it’s not safe to poke at. I prefer to insure that the 240 volt outlet is guaranteed to either be completely dead, or properly powered.

Gardner Minshew II threw two touchdown passes and ran for another score and No. 12 Washington State stopped No. 25…

Yup. Isolation is important as other commenters have noted. I’d compare electric heating pad design too, and probably require a door interlock to cut power to the bed when the door is open (enclosed only). A simpler way may be to simply put a transformer or “dirty” switcher under the bed and not put the higher voltage into the build plate in the first place. Use either a digital on/off for the switcher or a ZVS SSR for the transformer high side control. Would a 1/100 or 1/120 of a second minimum duty cycle and lsb affect the temperature that much, given the thermal mass of the system?

You really should drop the 110/240 volts statements and use 120/240 volts for residential installs. I don’t think 110 volts has been used since Thomas Edison.

By not distributing the three wires and only distributing two you try to limit the possible potential between neutral at the sub and neutral at the house by using multiple earths anywhere you can so in this case when lightning strikes the local ground potential rise applies to the ground and to the local end of the neutral/earth wire. Massive currents may flow through that neutral/ground and eventually through the low value resistor at the substation but under no circumstance other than network failure is it possible to get a neutral ground potential of significance with a premise. The low value resistor at the sub limits the current to one that the network can handle.

Due to its diminutive stature, most photographers will find that the grip only accommodates two fingers, with the index finger resting on the shutter release button above, and the little finger curling beneath the bottom of the camera. This might seem a little crowded, but with the light, plastic-bodied 18-55mm kit lens, handling is nonetheless good, with the combination feeling extremely well balanced. Using larger, heavier lenses, the grip size is too tiring for single-handed shooting, so the photographer’s left hand will need to serve double duty, adjusting zoom or focus while simultaneously taking up the weight of the lens itself.

Handheld Twilight mode captures a batch of high-ISO images, reducing blur from camera shake, and then averages the aligned exposures so as to reduce image noise. A new Multi-Frame NR mode acts similarly, but allows the ISO sensitivity to be selected manually, allowing use even at lower sensitivities. Of course, these effects could all be achieved in a PC with some work and know-how, but what’s impressive is that they’re now available with a minimum of fuss, in-camera. To ensure that even inexperienced photographers can derive benefit from these features, Sony has also created a new Auto+ exposure mode that can identify when these functions might be of use, and then enable them automatically.

I’m not going to argue with your statement, it just seems funny to me that someone would tens of thousands on an Electric Car but still be using a Gas lawnmower!:)

Andrew, here in the Land Up Over, Most residential power is single phase, A step down center tap transformer (pole pig) puts out 240 VAC from end to end and 120 VAC with respect to the Neutral (ground) center tap. Therefore the two phases are 180 degrees out of phase. These 3 wires are fed to the fuse box/breaker panel in the house. One hot goes down one side of the row of breakers and the other hot goes down the other side. Neutral is common, Ground is also in there, but whether it is connected to Neutral inside the Breaker Panel or outside may differ according to local regulations.

I think this could have failed purely due to the inadequate heat sink, made worse by elevated summer temperatures. Add the possibility of counterfeits in, it was doomed to failure.

My grandmother had a set of glass topped buffet serving tables where the glass top had a foil element sandwiched between the glass layers. They plugged right into the wall. No components other than the heating element, line cord, and a neon bulb to remind you it was plugged in. The element terminated with a couple of fused in copper rods threaded to take nuts. Got too hot to comfortably touch, but warm enough to keep your food hot. It should be within the capabilities of a glass/ceramics hobbiest with a kiln to sandwich a foil element between two pieces of glass and fuse the sandwich together.