Xiaomi’s Redmi Note 4 has a big 4,100 mAh battery and a tiny price tag | 19mm Momentary Push Button

It happens to the best of us. We power up our project and immediately run into issues. Be it spotty communication or microcontroller reset or any number of bugs that have us mystified and picking though our code… only to find that it’s a power supply issue. Anyone who has tried doing Raspberry Pi stuff and depended on the USB power from their PC has certainly been bit by this.

The Mi Mix 3 will be out on November 1st in China, starting at 3,299 yuan ($475) for a model with 6GB of RAM and 128GB of storage; that’s the same base price that the 64GB Mi 2S launched at. 3,999 yuan ($575) gets you 8GB of RAM and 256GB of storage. The 10GB model is a “Forbidden City Palace Museum” special edition variant that comes with 256GB of storage and costs 4,999 yuan ($720). Pricing for India and other markets should be announced soon.

Where Madrid, Spain Price from £28,000 (est) On sale Feb 2019 Engine 4 cyls, 1987cc, petrol plus electric motors Power 178bhp @6000rpm Torque 140lb ft @ 6000rpm Kerb weight 1410kg (est) Top speed tbc 0-62mph 7.9sec (est) Economy 74.3mpg (est) CO2 86g/km (NEDC est) Rivals VW Golf, Ford Focus

continuing akismetuser212339447″ Using a mechanical relay for your thermal control _may_ make you crazy with the clicking. If you think you can take the madness, keep an eye on the make/break current rating, and the lifetime switching at the design current. Switching current and voltage is often far less than carrying current, and electrical contact life is short compared to mechanical life (Switching at zero crossing will help). Also note that failure mode of relays is possibly contacts fused closed – design with safety in mind, and have some sort of feedback. Something like a thermal cutoff fuse?

I typed “bolts” for “volts” in one of my ramblings here, but caught it before clicking Post Comment. Let this be the ROUND(e^23,0) request for the ability to edit our comments, at least for a few minutes after posting. Hell, even WaPo allows it.

Creating a PCB heat bed isn’t an art – it’s a science. There are equations and variables to calculate, possibly some empirical measurements by measuring the resistance of a trace, but Ohm’s Law is a law for a reason. If you do things right, you can make a PCB heat bed perfectly suited for the task. You can even design in safety features like overcurrent protection and fuses. It can’t be that hard. After all, your house is full of devices that are plugged into the wall.

I’m confused… “Wire up the outlets for your mining rigs for 240 instead of 120”, shouldn’t you rig it up to use whatever enters your home. Apparently there is a choice, how is that possible, do they run their own generators over there?

Yup, switched off but still plugged in, that way the case is still earthed. Assuming a sensible 3-pin plug, or whatever the hell they do in places with just 2.

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With a smart charger the EV can be recharged at night and unless you are using electric strip heaters, even a 100 amp service panel can suffice. From 10 pm to 6 am there is no significant electrical demand (only the fridge or the furnace motor) to compete with the 32 amps for the EV. A drawback to L1 charging is having to leave the car plugged in for 3 times as long and having a power cord to trip over in the garage.

Power outlets in homes—but not businesses and other buildings—are required to have tamper-resistant receptacles, which prevent kids from getting hurt when sticking objects in the slot. At first glance, the tamper-resistant receptacles don’t look different from the ones without the safety feature, so read the label closely if you need to buy a new one. They’re a little more expensive, but I’ll send you back for another if you don’t shell out the extra money up front.

And keep in mind that EVSEs are a continuous duty device. As such, you need to derate them from the circuit’s rating by 20%. So you should only use 12A on a 15A rated circuit. And you should only do that if you’re confident that there’s nothing else pulling significant current on EITHER circuit besides your EVSE.