Zone out to the longest continuous timelapse made in space | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

The heater from the inner layer of the PCB still needs to exit to the surface using vias or plated through holes some how. So the contacts are still exposed. You might use a TRIAC in something like the phase control in a dimmer switch as a PWM to control heater power, but the peaks voltages at the output are still at line voltages levels.

24v 12a is not that much more at 288watts. I’m sure I’m missing something to do with electromagnetism which makes the secondary unnatractive?

Larger motors used in rural settings and light industry may aswell use 400 voltage between phases by triangle connection. 3 phase 16A sockets are almost never seen in apartments, but are usually found from houses that have garage or other workspace with larger machinery. Larger 3 phase sockets are very common in farm setting and light industrial buildings. E.g. our hackerspace has air compressor that is fed by 3x 400V 25A line. It doesn’t even have neutral line, motor is connected to triangle and 24V for control logic is stepped down from 400V with transformer.

If you do not know the exact value of each cost, you could enter an estimated percentage based on the cost of goods.

Interesting how both the sounds and the letters on a QWERTY keyboard for V and B are close enough that it’s possible to switch them by accident.

AC is safer than DC. You can let go of two AC terminals but not DC as DC keeps your muscles clenched. AC doesn’t.

“I don’t think” – hehehe I’ll agree with that. My utility company provides 3rd world electricity in August. Most days the juice drops to 103 without anything on in the house. I’d love to have as much as 110. Fortunately, the L1 car charger works down to 100, and the L2 stuff works at 187 – the lowest I’ve measured. 5 big reasons why the juice is so bad, but then I’m not paying for the loss, so its not a biggie with me. Just worry a bit about the refrig and freezer.

The camera can’t always perfectly compensate for how you move the camera during the panorama, nor for extreme perspective shifts, so you’ll sometimes see "stitch errors" in the assembled shots. The slight "stuttering" above left in a shot from the Sony A55 is typical of the mild errors that sometimes occur: Pretty unobtrusive, unless you really zoom in to pixel-peep. More dramatic errors like the crop from an A560 panorama seen above right were fairly rare in my experience. This is a great feature for dramatic vacation snapshots, but if you’re making panoramas professionally, you’ll still want to build them manually from separate shots.

Anyone that knows me really well, especially family members, is surprised/amazed that I’ve managed to be over 50 and still more or less bilaterally symmetrical, without too many visible scars.

The Sony Alpha A33 uses a 7.2V, 1020mAh InfoLITHIUM battery pack, with part number NP-FW50. Tested to the CIPA standard, the Sony Alpha A33 is rated at the lowest battery life among its SLT-series siblings, with 340 LCD shots, or 270 shots with the EVF. That’s perhaps a little surprising, given that it lacks the built-in GPS receiver of the A55V, has a lower-resolution image sensor yielding less data to process, a reduced shooting speed, and less buffer memory. By way of comparison, the A55V captures 380 shots with the LCD, or 330 shots with the EVF, while the A55 can manage 390 shots on the LCD, or 350 with the EVF.

The owners manual for the Clipper Creek unit shown in the picture specifically says not to wrap the cord tightly like shown in the picture. If you do the cord WILL get hot internally even when properly wired during a long charge. It needs that open space to vent heat. The cord will stay cool if coiled properly. Whenever people not knowing otherwise coil the public chargers like that I will loosen them up.

My fairly large (print volume 450x250x350mm) home-made 3D printer uses a mains-powered heat bed made from a junk-pile sourced electric pancake griddle which I ground down to more or less flat and glued a 24×12″ ceramic floor tile down to its top with high temperature silicone. It has a 10 ohm resistance and I use the original temperature control knob as a safety / sanity interlock against thermal runaway and then it is driven by 120v mains power switched by a 25A solid state relay controlled by the normal RAMPS heatbed output. The mains input runs through a breaker box before going to the 24v power supply for the NEMA23 motors and the ATX power supply for the Arduino, RAMPS, extruders, hotends, and Odroid U3 that make up the rest of the printer.