Zone out to the longest continuous timelapse made in space | 25 Amp Circuit Breaker

Steady in the dark. The Sony A33′s Handheld Twilight (HHT) mode uses multiple shots and micro-alignment to permit handheld exposures even in very dark conditions. This was a very dark bar scene, but the shot came out sharp enough for a 5×7 print. It could have used some exposure adjust and (definitely) a different white balance setting. Exposure is auto-only in HHT mode, but the similar multi-frame NR mode gives full control.

The camera can’t always perfectly compensate for how you move the camera during the panorama, nor for extreme perspective shifts, so you’ll sometimes see "stitch errors" in the assembled shots. The slight "stuttering" above left in a shot from the Sony A55 is typical of the mild errors that sometimes occur: Pretty unobtrusive, unless you really zoom in to pixel-peep. More dramatic errors like the crop from an A560 panorama seen above right were fairly rare in my experience. This is a great feature for dramatic vacation snapshots, but if you’re making panoramas professionally, you’ll still want to build them manually from separate shots.

In this case, multiply the number of times you charged the car by 8.9 kWh for a low estimate of electric power consumed. For a better estimate, you need to know what the battery charging losses are. It takes more than 8.9 kWh to charge an 8.9 kWh battery – some of the power gets lost to heat. I can’t find authoritative data, but posters on Tesla forums claiming to have measured this report losses between 10 and 20%. If you assume it’s 15%, then it’ll take 8.9 / (1 – .15) = 10.5 kWh to charge the Niro’s battery.

But they’d have to be in the same phase for it to work. If they’re in opposing phase, they’ll just push and pull against each other.

They do not connect 240VAC , they connect 24v DC with a 15A source. Remeber AC is a sine signal, you don’t want a signal that turn off 60 or 50 times per second.

Ah yes, the typical “Let’s leave that discussion for somewhere else” when the downsides of EVs are pointed out…

WASHOUGAL — To hear Shirley Scott tell it, this town’s recent drive toward proliferating public artworks was born out of…

Many thermostats are battery-operated, and once they power down so will your air conditioner or heater. Check that your thermostat is fully operational and the connections to the wall are good.

They all have a ceramic rod or coil wrapped with nichrome wire that turn red hot. A vaccum forming table design I looked at used ceramic rods made the same way with reflectors to evenly distribute the heat. I believe all of the above (I did not verify if the table was) were UL marked.

Everything industrial is 3 phase though; it’s 240V phase/neutral or 415V phase/phase here though. You can certainly get a 3 phase connection to your house and/or shed though – it costs about $1000 to replace the meter plus a bit more for wiring – if you have a problematic power-tool habit like me.

Under a heavy load, an A/C unit can trip an electrical breaker. Check the breaker box to make sure this hasn’t happened, and also use a multimeter to check the fuses inside the disconnect block next to your air conditioner to make sure they are still functioning. If either of these scenarios appear, there could be an underlying electrical problem with your home’s main box. Have an electrician look at that.

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