Zone out to the longest continuous timelapse made in space | Circuit Breaker Parts

The farther I need to travel to get to you, the more time is taken out of my day—and I’ll factor that into your bill. Finding someone closer to your neighborhood might be able to charge you less.

It works, but the losses are significantly higher, and if you’re drawing much power you’re going to need heavy, expensive low-voltage sides on both transformers. In a pinch, fine, but if you’re going to be buying them it’s better to spring for a single transformer.

Pick-up voltage usually occurs when the motor has reached about three-fourths of its speed. The start winding is still in the back-EMF circuit, keeping the relay’s coil energized while the motor is running at full speed.

That. Console. Is. Disgusting. Reminds me of my PT Cruiser’s cheapest part: the single piece off-white console.

In their best days (unfortunately behind them), they have merely LISTED an appliance. (Listing is currently their TOUGHEST CRITERION).

> those who haven had the opportunity to study electricity or had made the effort to study it. Can’t let Darwin wipe them out when they happens to the target market… Even worse is that there are people that want to build printers on their own, but are not qualified to wire stuff to line voltage safely.

My fairly large (print volume 450x250x350mm) home-made 3D printer uses a mains-powered heat bed made from a junk-pile sourced electric pancake griddle which I ground down to more or less flat and glued a 24×12″ ceramic floor tile down to its top with high temperature silicone. It has a 10 ohm resistance and I use the original temperature control knob as a safety / sanity interlock against thermal runaway and then it is driven by 120v mains power switched by a 25A solid state relay controlled by the normal RAMPS heatbed output. The mains input runs through a breaker box before going to the 24v power supply for the NEMA23 motors and the ATX power supply for the Arduino, RAMPS, extruders, hotends, and Odroid U3 that make up the rest of the printer.

Translucent (pellicle) mirror. Undoubtedly the biggest story of the Sony SLT-series cameras is their use of a translucent mirror. Also known as pellicle mirror, this works by allowing most light to pass through to the imaging surface beneath, while a small portion is reflected for other purposes. Sony is not the first camera manufacturer to use a translucent mirror in an SLR-style camera, with the manual focus Canon Pellix film camera from 1965 taking that credit. The Pellix was followed by a handful of other pellicle mirror-based SLRs from Canon, Nikon, and Mamiya, largely designed for professional photographers, and manufactured in very limited production runs. It wasn’t until 1989′s Canon EOS RT that the first autofocus pellicle camera was released, followed by the EOS-1N RS in 1995. Fifteen years later, Sony has become the first company to resurrect the pellicle mirror for use in an interchangeable lens digital camera.

If you look at the Fotek datasheet for that relay, you’ll find that the specified heatsink does not resemble a piece of galvanized steel sheet metal, horizontally mounted with a half inch air gap under it, and set on top of a heater.

I don’t think you can get multimeters that share the volts and amps socket, since the amps is usually a shunt to the ground terminal, very low-resistance, big and chunky high-wattage resistor. Volts is, ideally, infinite resistance, but not in practice of course.

The control buttons are for the most part intelligently arranged and readily accessible, but the small space available for them on the right side of the body does mean that you need to hold the camera in your left hand to be able to access them properly: They’re really too close to the right side of the camera to keep your fingers wrapped around the grip and operate the buttons with any degree of comfort. On the angled top/back panel, the EV adjust button is perfectly located, right under your thumb, with the AE lock and movie recording buttons on either side of it. The movie button does require a deliberate reach to get to, but is nonetheless easy to identify by feel when you’re looking through the viewfinder; just slide your thumb over until it hits the viewfinder housing, and you’ll be right on top of the movie button.

You neglected to mention the Geiger-Muller counter and the Anthrax detector. Nothing short of criminal negligence to work without either one.