A user calling himself "Tango" over at the MyNissanLEAF forum posted them yesterday saying, "I wasn’t sure if anyone posted pics of the insides yet, so while they were [installing it], I took a couple of pictures of the innards."
The most useful thing I found in this article is that you can rotate those screw connectors at a 45 and they drop in 0.1 inch breadboard holes.
The thing about the picture that worries me is the receptacles seem to be mounted below 18 inches from the floor. That is a BIG NO-NO. IF there are any gasoline cans in the garage for an old lawn-mower, etc then he has just created an explosion hazard.
If the car achieved its minimum 44 mpg and used 3.1 gallons, that means 136 miles were done on gasoline and 117 were EV miles.
Called the MPSMv2, the core of the project is the ESP8266 module. The dev board itself can support anything with GPIO pins, whether it’s an Arudino, Raspberry Pi, or anything else with those features. Flashing the NodeMCU firmware is pretty much all that needs to be done in order to get the device up and running, and once you get the device connected to your WiFi you’ll be able to control whatever appliances you want.
Being in the controller business I’ve been presented more than one friend’s design with insufficient cooling. One friend even mounted his SSR to a decent heat sink then mounted the entire assembly inside his housing with no air circulation. His response was “it will work” and he’s had two SSRs fail that I know of. At least in his case, the steel housing kept the “magic smoke” contained!
About ten years ago, when the first cheap DVD players came into Australia from China, there was a huge failure rate due to this issue. The cause was almost always blown caps, and they could be fixed by up spec’ing the voltage tolerance for the caps in the supply.
I would like to add that it’s not just electricity you need to worry about. There could be other energy sources present from things like air, springs, hydraulic, etc that could pose a safety risk when you remove the electricity.
A fun read is the Boeing’s space station power system document that describes the DC power system on the ISS: http://www.boeing.com/assets/pdf/defense-space/space/spacestation/systems/docs/ISS%20Electric%20Power%20System.pdf
People that build or use 3D printers aren’t necessarily qualified electricians or know how to handle high voltage safely. That’s what I mean for ” Can’t let Darwin wipe them out when they happens to the target market… ”
Grip comfort/security is greatly aided by the deeply sculpted thumbrest on the camera’s back. Combined with the textured rubber used over the whole right half of the body, it provides a very secure gripping point for my thumb, and does a lot to make up for the small size of the front grip. The rubber coating also contributes to a feel of solid build quality, by damping the body vibrations that often make small and light cameras feel tinny or cheap.
I suppose it’d be a case by case thing. But I wouldn’t want to give an insurance company another excuse not to pay out.
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