Oh, and if you want a car charging hack, there’s always the Hydra: http://hackaday.io/project/3939-j1772-hydra
Regular gasoline costs about $3 per gallon where I live, so it’ll cost (26 / 46 * 3) = $1.70 to propel the Niro the next 26 miles after the battery is depleted.
Fast AF. Phase-detect AF doesn’t hunt like contrast-detect, making for fast, smooth AF during movies. (Click to download 4.9MB MP4 file.)
I also own an electric kiln designed to heat and temper glass so a page can be taken from that design. I haven’t made the effort to investigate the heating elements as of yet.
Agreed, this is a house fire waiting to happen and your insurance co. won’t give you a cent if an investigation points to this homecooked thing as the firestarter. There are numerous commercial alternatives which are small enough to fit in a junction box _and_ are UL/FCC/CE approved. Granted, they aren’t as cheap as the ESP module and the triac described here, but in the end, most cheap alternatives to switching powerful currents turn out to be very expensive after all.
He did specifically mount/build that setup around the possibility of failure. He talks about it in the first few minutes of the video. Kinda a hyped up headline.
Translucent (pellicle) mirror. Undoubtedly the biggest story of the Sony SLT-series cameras is their use of a translucent mirror. Also known as pellicle mirror, this works by allowing most light to pass through to the imaging surface beneath, while a small portion is reflected for other purposes. Sony is not the first camera manufacturer to use a translucent mirror in an SLR-style camera, with the manual focus Canon Pellix film camera from 1965 taking that credit. The Pellix was followed by a handful of other pellicle mirror-based SLRs from Canon, Nikon, and Mamiya, largely designed for professional photographers, and manufactured in very limited production runs. It wasn’t until 1989′s Canon EOS RT that the first autofocus pellicle camera was released, followed by the EOS-1N RS in 1995. Fifteen years later, Sony has become the first company to resurrect the pellicle mirror for use in an interchangeable lens digital camera.
Why not use a silicone pad block heater for cars? You glue them on, they run on 120v and work good. It’s robust enough to sit on the bottom of your engine, in elements and gravel spray from the road, for years. They even come with a little tube of aluminum adhesive. Seems like a pretty good fit.
In the case of Chinese relays and SSRs I double the amps and add 10% …. Ditto for Chinese switching regulators which put out everything but DC after they reach about 50-60% of their rated load
That depends on the country. I live in Europe, and people here are allowed to do basic repairs and modification with mains voltage, like adding extra outlets. All the materials such as PVC conduits, wires, outlets, lights, switches and dimmers are readily available in the hardware store. It is however not allowed to mess with anything before the meter or fuses. Some equipment like electric stoves don’t come with power cords. Instead, you open up some compartment, and attach the wires on some screw terminals.
The number on this photo is a little misleading. 337 mpg! I think I shot it after having the car for about ten minutes, nearly all of it without using the petrol engine. Still, itâs a nice little tease for any friends riding along.
Ah yes, the typical “Letâs leave that discussion for somewhere else” when the downsides of EVs are pointed out…
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