ZTE’s newest Blade phone features dual cameras, a glass back, and face detection | Circuit Breaker Parts

I believe two-man saws bite both directions. And if they don’t, then pretend that they do for the analogy.

Tilt level. The Sony A33 includes a dual-axis level gauge, which helps ensure level horizons and prevent converging verticals in photos. The level gauge can be shown on either the electronic viewfinder or the rear-panel LCD, but only alongside the most basic information overlay — you can’t combine the detailed display overlays with the level gauge. A clever way around it, though, is to set one viewer to the level gauge, and the other to a more informative display, since by default you can set the display modes independently. There’s no way for the user to recalibrate the gauge, if they find the factory default to be inaccurate. The gauge is displayed in a style reminiscent of an aircraft attitude indicator, but with a separation of the roll and pitch indicators. When the camera is perfectly level, the pitch indicators and markings at the end of the roll indicator are illuminated in green.

Then again, like other counterfeit assemblies…. they might rely on the installer using a 25A relay for a 15A load which is why they put a counterfeit 16A triac inside which the manufacturer actually put a die of a 12A because he knows his user will de-rate the max current anyway.

For all my complaining about the difficulty of tracking sports subjects and the dead-screen issue, though, the difference between these SLTs and other consumer-level DSLRs is little short of astonishing. It may not be a direct substitute for a Canon 1D Mark IV or Nikon D3s, but if you have a budget of under $1,000 and shoot any fast action at all, the Sony A55 and A33 are hands-down slam-dunk purchase decisions. At this point, there’s nothing else in the large-sensor segment of the digital camera market that remotely approaches their high-speed capture capabilities.

Also, when you say “..10A relay will dissipate maximum 2.5W through the 0.1ohm contacts…” also does not seem to be correct: P=R*I^2, so @10A it’s 10W

That said. We routinely use run of the mill power resistors in the aluminum heatsinked package, you know the ones, they start with the letter “D”, as heaters. Ohms law doesn’t fucking care if it’s DC or AC, but a little RMS will explain that DC will do the same amount of work at a lower voltage. It doesn’t fucking matter because you can choose another resistor value and get the same thing with AC. A cheap temperature controller and a relay will suffice if you have enough thermal mass to average the temperature.

As a result I wrote this article in 2015 outlining the issue, what I did to ID the problem and the solution.https://www.instructables.com/id/The-inner-workings-of-Counterfeit-FOTEK-SSRs/

1. Metal-oxide varistors (MOVs) are available in a variety of form factors and sizes for a broad range of applications. The radial leaded disc type is the most common version.

Before we get too deep into this topic of wire sizing, let’s acknowledge that while detailed conductor sizing is the job of engineers and electricians (not HVACR technicians), there are many cases where contractors are tasked with assessing whether a breaker or conductor (wire) is adequate in both retrofit and service situations.

All silly, make graphene in a blender combine it with acrylic paint, then paint it on. Making heated beds is anything but an art form. Or just use graphite.

Australia is similar, except 3ph is uncommon in a house. There’s 3 phase at the kerb and each house is connected to one phase.

This seems to me that your experiment failed due to thermal failure cased by insufficient cooling and not the part itself..You stated yourself that the part failed due to thermal expansion (insufficient cooling). But it’s still a valid experiment with valid results. And you show that it’s up to the designer (or designers) to design the entire product, which includes sufficient cooling. This is one area where home designs fail – a lot.